THE GREAT SOUTHERN PLATEAU
OR TABLE-LAND OF TENNESSEE
1886
Back in the late 1970s, a friend brought to our attention a little booklet from 1886 sent out to “northern people” to bring settlers and real estate development here. The original was found in the possessions of a resident of Michigan. His son found it quite by accident in the late 1960s and so fascinating was the story of this “Great Southern Table Land” that he moved here and became a developer in our county. Following is a reprint of this delightful advertising booklet.
The booklet is reprinted just as it reads, even though some sentence structure and other language features may have changed through the years. We think this may be the way to convey the excitement the writers felt at the time about this wonderful place. We have read it many times through the years and still get immense pleasure from perusing it again and again. We hope you will enjoy it as much as we have. MRC
And so, onward we go.....
Comparatively few citizens of our wide-extended Nation know that in the very center of the New South, a great and peculiar Plateau stands all alone, like an island in the ocean: it is forty miles wide, and that from its edges on both sides one can look over another country which lies a thousand feet below.
This Great Plateau is no desert plain. It was long the “happy hunting ground” for the Cherokee where he roamed in peace, undisturbed by the savage warfare of Kentucky’s “dark and bloody land”. When the first white hunters ascended its sides, they found its surface covered with “The forest primeval”. But it was not generally dense, and underneath was a carpet of nutritious grasses upon which numerous herds of deer were feeding.
The Indian has gone to the Far West; the hunter’s cabin may occasionally yet be seen, while the deer no longer in herds, yet singly and pairs, furnish keen enjoyment to the sportsman, but are rapidly passing away to give place to the flocks and herds of the settler.
This Was Not the Home of Slavery
Its great elevation gave it a very different climate from the rest of the state. It was not well adapted to the culture of “King Cotton”. In fact, it had “a northern climate, in a southern latitude”. But, while its mean yearly temperature was about the same as that of the southern part of the middle states of the North, its seasons were quite different. The winters were shorter and milder, the springs and autumns longer, the summers of nearly the same length; but strange as it may seem, it is yet true that they were cooler than those north of Mason and Dixon’s line. This is caused by the elevation. Its summer days were breezy, and their nights nearly always cool. The hunter could wrap his blanket around him and sleep with comfort. No swarms of mosquitoes were ever here to disturb him. In winter, half the time it was like spring in the North. Such was the country and such its climate.
Today
It stands alone and unique. There is no plateau like it on the continent. Untouched by the great curse that followed unskilled and servile labor that left its legacy in worn out fields and naked gullies in many parts of the South, it is, as yet, only dotted with farms here and there, which form clusters or neighborhoods.
‘Tis true, and ‘tis well ‘tis true. For the so-called “improvements” of the old hunter-citizens were often far from being improvements in reality. They did little more than clear up a few acres to raise corn, “Irish taters” (potatoes) and such vegetables as they needed; then they took a good long rest. And why not? Did not the deer still leap through the open wild lands? Could not their cattle, horses and sheep graze on the nutritious grasses of “a thousand hills”? Were not their hogs fierce and free, and fattened on the “mast” (acorns and nuts)? Verily, those were days of “Arcadian simplicity” and if not of luxury, yet of lazy, “luxurious ease”.
The Foregoing
Explains the causes that have combined to produce the present condition of the country, which is that of a thinly settled, semi-agricultural, semi-pastoral region.
Cumberland County, which lies in the center of this Great Plateau in both directions, has a population of about five thousand, and an area of about eight hundred square miles. But this includes the wide stretches of country that are, as yet, scarcely settled at all. In a majority of these unoccupied spaces, the land lies well, and varies from level to undulating. They somewhat resemble the “oak openings” of the West. Three fourths of the timber is oak, and includes post oak, black oak, white oak, spotted oak and other varieties, including some black jack. Chestnut and hickory are scattered among the oaks, and maple is found in the lowlands, and along the streams, for on this Plateau are many brooks and creeks, and even three or four small rivers. Some of these flatlands are covered with underbrush, but much of their area is comparatively free from it, and often there is none of any consequence. A wagon can be driven through the woods over much of this land with great ease. In some places the open forest is as beautiful as a park. The grasses that grow here are somewhat like the prairie grasses of the West. They might be described as being in character and quality about half way between the grasses of the prairies and those of the plains. They are very nutritious and make fat and tender beef by August out of cattle that are poor in the spring. Cattle, horses and sheep thrive on them alone for over half the year, and they furnish considerable subsistence during the other half. Along a few of the streams are natural meadows from which hay is cut. Besides these open woodlands are rolling and hilly sections in which the timber is closer and heavier and the grass less abundant. In some places, there is none.
The larger streams do not rush down the steep sides of the Plateau to the country below. They cut deep gorges or canyons as they approach the edge of the tableland and flow out from it at a level with its base. In many cases, the country up to the very edge of these canyons is of the usual character and the chasm seems as if it has been a “split” made by some gigantic power. And this is no deception, for the great “upheaval” that formed the Plateau made these chasms at the same time.
Following up the streams, the canyons disappear and there are none along the smaller creeks and branches. Some of these find their sources in the hilly sections, some in the level, open woodlands, and a few in natural prairie meadows. The water is generally as clear as crystal, and this is true even in winter, except for a very short time after rains.
The country was burned over annually by the Indians and later by the white hunters, and much of the open woodlands are still swept by fires in the spring. This custom, having been continued for centuries, has produced the following effects: It has filled the soil with potash, which lies dormant, and has prevented the accumulation of vegetable mold or humus; has retarded the growth of timber, but by destroying the leaves, has promoted the growth of the native grasses. In places where the country is so intersected by streams as to prevent the spread of fires there is a deep vegetable mold and heavy timber, but no grass whatever. This would have been the condition of the whole Plateau had it not been for the fires. It is better as it is, for in that case, it would have required great labor to clean up a farm, and in the meantime there would have been no range, no pasture for the stock. As it is now, the range is as free as air to the settler. (Though the stock of non-residents is not wanted.) By skillful farming and the proper cultivation of the tame grasses, stock of all kinds can live and thrive on the pasture alone for none or ten months of the year. It would only remain for the farmer to supply suitable food for the remaining time.
But to do this successfully and profitable requires some care and skill. It must be remembered that the fires have turned the vegetable matter into ashes. Therefore, to bring these lands to a high state of cultivation, the farmer must reverse the process. That is, he must add vegetable matter to the soil. This can readily be done by plowing under green crops. The plowing will at the same time kill out the wild growth and aerate the land. And in this climate it is not at all necessary to go without crops while thus increasing the fertility of the land. One crop can be turned under and another grown for feed for stock, or for food for their owner, on the same plat in the same year. Thus the farmer, who is a farmer, can have his land grow better and better, and yet harvest a crop from each field every year.
The soil is generally a moderately sandy loam, rather light brown in color, which becomes somewhat darker when new land is cleared up and exposed to the atmosphere. The subsoil is clayey and the timber on it is oak. The good effects of manure on any of these soils are very marked. This partly owing to the latent potash which they contain. For this same reason, the growth of bushes and of fruit trees is very rapid. Their roots readily penetrate the moderately open subsoil, and the soil and potash furnish the food that they need. Fruit trees will grow a half faster here than in the North. They will also bear that much younger, and for quality, the fruit grown here has not been surpassed. The fruits of the Plateau are of much better quality than those grown in the surrounding country Winter apples grown here will keep much longer than those raised in the rest of the South, and are beginning to be grown for the southern markets. Grapes are of excellent quality. Vines are perfectly healthy. All small fruits are sweeter here than the same varieties in the North. Any farmer can have an abundance of these if he will.
It is not only the fruits, but also the grains and vegetables grown here, that are of extra quality. The quantity is moderate, but that depends on the skill of the grower, and can be greatly increased. Even the corn raised here makes bread, which for sweetness and flavor is far superior to that of the North. No wonder that northern setters, who seldom used it at home, soon become so fond of it as to feel that they cannot do without it here.
The Irish potatoes of the Plateau, when well grown, are for quality and delicacy of flavor, unsurpassed on the continent. All kinds of vegetables do well here. Sweet potatoes are first rate. Cabbages, turnips, beans, onions, melons, etc. all thrive.
Grain of all kinds can be grown; corn, rye, wheat, buckwheat, oats, peas, beans, sorghum, etc. German millet does extra well on good land here.
All the cultivated grasses of the North can be grown here: Timothy, red-top, orchard grass, blue grass, red clover and white clover. The red-top grown here is as good as timothy and much better than the red-top found in the North. Alfalfa or Lucerne clover, Bermuda grass and Johnson grass can be grown here, and probably successfully. This is
A Great Stock Country
Located much nearer the great markets than the western plains, it equals them in free range (for the settler), while it is exempt from their long droughts, enabling the stock-grower to produce his own winter feed, and at the same time, not only the necessities but all the luxuries of life known to this genial climate. It is therefore specially adapted to building up homes and to the stock-raiser or fruit-grower who is at the same time a home-seeker or health-seeker, it possesses great attractions. To beautify the home, evergreens, shrubbery and flowers will all grow luxuriantly. The woods are full of beautiful wild flowers. Bees do well, making honey from their nectar. The Plateau is also
A Great Natural Sanitarium
Standing far, far above the surrounding country, its atmosphere is entirely different. Here the air is as pure as pure can be. The mild climate, free from the extremes of both heat and cold, adds to the great salubrity. Mineral springs contain iron and sulphur, and at least one has both tonic and alternative properties. All of these things combined will make, and are making, the Plateau a Great National Health Resort, which for solid merit is excelled by none, if it is indeed equaled by any. It is an “all-the-year-round” sanitarium, not a temporary refuge for a season only.
Cumberland County
The center of this Great Plateau is not only central in location, but also central in importance. Its natural advantages are greater than those in any other part. It contains more northern people than any county in this section, and as its railroad prospects are much better than those in other parts, it is destined to increase in value and in population a great deal faster than any county in this highland section.
A Description
of this county is therefore specially demanded. It lies due north of Chattanooga and on an airline between Knoxville and Nashville, being nearer to Knoxville. It is also directly west of Rockwood, which is one of the principal mining towns on the Cincinnati Southern Railroad. The full name of this road is the Cincinnati, New Orleans and Texas Pacific Railroad. This is the road over which northern settlers come to this county. From Rockwood, there is a star mail route, which passes through the center of the county and of the state. It connects the above names railroad with the city of Nashville, the mails making extra time, running day and night and passing daily each way. The is the principal star mail route in the state. For the first thirteen miles west of Rockwood, it passes over a country that is partially hilly and in some places rugged. But after entering Crab Orchard Gap, the table-land proper is reached and the country is much more level than in what is called the Valley of East Tennessee, and which extends east from Rockwood to the state line. Eleven miles west of Crab Orchard the traveler reaches
Crossville
which is the county seat. It is as yet a small town, but contains several stores and hotels of moderate size. Also the Webster Academy, a church (with others in prospect), a wagon shop, meat market, etc. Crossville also contains
A New Stone Court House
This is a handsome and very substantial building and has just been erected. It was nearly all paid for by the time the work was completed and will entail no debt upon the county. There is also a jail, but it is very little used. It usually does not contain more than two or three persons during the year and generally for a short time only. It is at this writing entirely empty. There is
No Saloon in Crossville
And has not been in several years. Under the present law, none can be opened within four miles of Webster Academy. A bill has just passed both houses of the Tennessee Legislature, by a joint vote of 118 to 6, in favor of submitting the question of prohibition to the people.
An Addition to Crossville
On the southeastern side of the first town plat, a new addition has just been laid off. This is on an elevated location and not only commands a complete view of the remainder of the town, but also of a long mountain range a few miles distant. Lots in this addition can be had on the most reasonable terms. There is a small iron spring at Crossville. Several northern people have recently bought in this vicinity.
At Howard Springs, a post office three miles west on the same star route, is a northern settlement and a very fine mineral and medicinal spring, said by judges to be the “best water in the state”. At this place are some beautiful grounds which contain a great variety of evergreens, etc. These waters were used by the Cherokee Indians. Arrangements have just been made for the accommodation of health-seekers.
At Pomona, six miles west, is a neat village that has recently been built by northern people. It is situated on the “dividing ridge” between the waters of the Cumberland and Tennessee rivers. The site of the village however, is nearly level. Pomona contains a store and a good church.
Pleasant Hill, eleven miles west, has a store and a combined church and school building just erected and very good.
Northville, five miles east, has a store, a stream saw mill and a large unfinished academy building in the vicinity.
There are eighteen post offices in the county. The postmasters at ten of them are northern men. No distinction as to place of birth is made here. The people are very hospitable and friendly.
The Coal and Iron
That underlie this county will greatly increase its wealth in the near future. There is no coal between the Plateau and the Atlantic Ocean on the east, or between it and the Mississippi River on the west. Lands are now being eagerly sought by speculators and mineral companies, but many are holding from the fact that this county now has
Great Railroad Prospects
The Tennessee & Sequatchee Valley Railroad has been built into the southeastern part of the county, with the prospect of extending across it. Three other railroad companies have recently obtained charters that extend through Cumberland County, namely: The Knoxville & Nashville road, the Memphis & Bristol and the Cumberland Valley & Unaka. These all extend east and west. Prominent Nashville parties have also just secured a charter for a railroad to pass through the county from north to south, connecting with the Cincinnati road and passing down the Sequatchee Valley toward Birmingham, Alabama. Surveys are being made, etc. Lands are still very low, and those who wish to secure the advantages of present prices should address us as promptly as possible, as we cannot say how soon the big boom will strike us.
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Well…there you have it. As time allows, we intend to bring a few things up to date about the area.
By way of summary.......
Location
Crossville is the county seat. This area is within a day’s drive of about 75% of our nation’s total population—one hour to Knoxville, one and one-half hour to Nashville, one hour to Chattanooga, and four hours to Atlanta
Active but
Relaxed Way of Life
We have unspoiled forests, mountains, streams, and valleys and the friendliest people you’ll ever find.
Mild Climate
An advertisement in the 1880s touted this area as the “Great Southern Plateau with the Northern Clime”. At an average elevation of nearly 2000 ft., our temperature is about 5 to 10 degrees below that of the valleys around us. The average annual temperature here is 54°. Monthly Avg. High Temp: Jan-39°, July-82°; Monthly Avg. Low Temp: Jan-21°, July-64°. Annual Avg. Precipitation: 52 in.; Annual Avg. Snowfall: 12 in.
Affordable Living
Our County has a very affordable cost of living (taxes on a $100,000 home are about $400 annually). Rand McNally has rated Crossville as #4 in the nation for places to retire based upon climate, housing, health care, personal safety, money matters and leisure living.
Excellent Health Care
Cumberland Medical Center is a 202-bed not-for-profit healthcare facility located here. It is rated as one of the top 100 facilities in the nation. We have a very high concentration of medical perfessionals per-capita here.
Performing Arts
Cumberland County Playhouse presents productions ranging from Broadway hits to original dramas and musicals based on our Appalachian heritage.
Golfers Delight
11 golf courses- 216 holes- 3 of the states top courses located here.
Unmatched Outdoor Activities
Fishing, hunting, hiking, swimming, boating, golf, tennis, horseback riding, camping.
Rural Heritage
We have one of the last and largest award-winning agriculture fairs in the state. We even turn school out for the fair here because so many of the students participate. Everyone goes to the fair! Our economy is said to be “tri-focal”—that is, it’s about equally divided in agriculture, tourism and light manufacturing.
Come see us. You may never want to leave!
THIRD TENNESSEE REALTY, LLC.
Miles R. Clark
2008 N. Main St. (Hwy 127 N.)
PO Box 3466
Crossville, TN 38555
Off: 931-484-4173
Toll Free: 866-766-4173
Fax: 931-456-6211
Res Tel/Fax: 931-484-7680
Email: MilesClark@frontiernet.net
Web: www.GreatSouthernPlateau.com
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